Hello, folks:
I have just reached Hyderabad (after a 2-day stay in Delhi) yesterday. Our Mt Kailash - Manasarovar yatra was successfully completed on schedule and by God's grace, in reasonably good health. Besides a few other difficulties, I caught severe cold w/ cough during the onward journey itself, reaching its worst stage just 2 days prior to our PARIKRAMANA (the 53km hike around Mt Kailash to be done over a period of 3 days).
Of the 35 yatris, nine were already down with various other ailments (nausea, respiratory, fever, headaches, etc) and chose NOT TO go for the parikramana, and instead chose to stay over at the base camp at the foot of Kailash those three days. Of the remaining 26 of us, I think there were 15 men and 11 women. All except six opted for ponies as a standby (those who preferred to walk, but hired the pony just in case they wanted to get on the horse if the climb was tough). I was one of those.
All the 35 of us reached Lake Manasarovar on 7th July evening –spent some time there and arranged for a good location for Pooja the next morning. By now my cold was pretty bad and I wasn't sure what to do. Next morning, all of went back to the Lake and took a holy dip in probably 20 degree temp with howling winds beating us. By about 9:30 AM, all of us finished our bathing and changed over to clean clothes (to get ready for the Pooja) for the first time in almost 3 days!
The tour party had two Pandits/ Purohits with us, specifically for the Pooja. We all sat for the Pooja facing Mt. Kailash, with Lake Manasarovar behind us. By now temperatures started climbing into 70s and 80s and eventually must have reached at least 100 by the time we were done (because many of them got sunburns with literally the skin peeling off their backs). Starting around 10:30 AM, we all did Ganesh Pooja, Siva Abhishekam with 11 Rudrams, Chandi Homam, Laksha Vattula Pooja and a few other Poojas. It was quite elaborate and lasted till over 4:45 PM. (They brought all Pooja Samagri for everybody from Hyderabad itself). We had our first meal of the day on the shores of the Lake at 5:00 PM. Returned to our quarters as outside temp was dropping. That evening, I had a decision to make –whether to go forward with my cold or stay in the base camp.
With the encouragement of a lot of co-yatris, including our own Cheruvu Murty garu and Vijaya garu, and support from the tourist/ guide staff, I decided to go seeking God's help all the while - because I was not in a position to go, but decided to go anyway on the horse. Next morning (July 9th) we started around 9 or 10 AM and did the about 14 km on horseback and walked about 2 km. It wasn't that difficult, except that there was a hailstorm and then some rain for about half hour mid-way thru the parikramana. Both Murty garu and Vijaya walked all the way. Of the rest, I think at least 10 others must have ridden the ponies.
That night, my options weren't good at all! To go forward meant undertaking a 27 km hike (even on horseback, it is tough!) thru rough weather and ascending almost 2000 ft altitude with my cough/cold (plus maybe some altitude sickness too) - the alternative was to tuck my tail in, take the pony and go back to the base camp. Again, friends came to my rescue and said they will stay with me as needed and I decided with God's blessings to move ahead.
On 10th July we woke up at 5:00 am and started around 7:00 am to the highest point of our climb, a place called Dromla Pass, about 18,500 ft altitude. We had to reach there early so that we can begin the descent early before the gathering clouds caused any rain. Luckily, weather Gods cooperated and we made our ascent in good time. During the descent, the gradient is too steep and narrow for both horse and rider to travel safely together. So, I walked about 8 or 9km with my Sherpa guide besides me - then got on the horse for 4 km and walked the last 1km - that was the toughest 1 km I could think of! I was COMPLETELY EXHAUSTED, quite sick and I needed some puffs of oxygen before I could drink my cup of tea! On this day, just four people did the entire trek WALKING - all the rest of us took ponies for all or part of our journey. Cheruvu Murty garu walked all the way and Vijaya garu rode the pony all the way - actually, she was with me all the way because both of our ponies had the same horseman! During this hike, we pass thru Gowrikund (where Goddess Parvathi is supposed to have bathed), Rakshastal (where Ravana is supposed to have bathed) and a few other small lakes. We collected the crystal clear, running waters off of the melting snow of Mt. Kailash and some water from Gowrikund also. Weather was pretty good the whole day.
On 11th July, we started around 8 AM and I took the pony again for the last some 14 km - maybe walked a km or two. We reached the base camp by about 1 pm, had lunch and headed back to the OTHER SIDE OF Manasarovar. The circumference of this lake is about 90 Km and we went around and covered about 60 km the first time by car, on 7th July. The remaining 30 Km around the lake we finished this evening in our cruisers and rested in the guest house. The idea was to see the twinkling stars in the lake on GURUPURNIMA day while looking at the silvery reflections of Mt Kailash. None of that was possible because the sky was overcast and raining. Although some braved the weather by staying awake till 2 AM or so hoping for some celestial circus, I was too sick to get out of my bed and the spent the night in pain.
Besides the pain and physical discomfort part, the three-day hike/ horse ride left a deep spiritual footprint on my entire body=mind-soul that I can't adequately describe. Many of my co-yatris were DEEPLY SPIRITUAL and they felt the vibrations stronger than mine obviously (Some of them were overwhelmed with joy and ecstatic at the first glimpse of Mt. Kailash and they literally cried with joy for hours). My experience was not so deep or profound, but yet there was that powerful sense that overtook me to feel that after 3years of planning-dreaming-planning, I was finally ALLOWED TO SET FOOT ON THAT HALLOWED GROUND where many a saint has walked over millennium and made that place so sacred. Was I humbled? Of course, yes! I even felt that all my physical pain and the resulting INABILITY TO WALK THE PATH (as I originally planned and thought was fully capable of!) WAS A DIRECT RESULT OF MY IMPETUOUS UTTERANCES THAT I OUGHT TO BE ABLE TO WALK IT IF EVEN SO-AND-SO WAS ABLE TO DO IT! I strongly believe now that Lord Shiva wanted
to teach me a lesson in humility and to tone down my cockiness by showing me who is the BOSS and one would only walk if HE wishes you to walk, and not otherwise! Even some of my co-yatris from Hyderabad were so frail, or seemingly not fit enough for the parikramana, but yet, they did it either by walk or on horse with flying colors, without any physical discomfort, some even without ONE PILL OF DIAMOX, clad in ordinary cold-weather gear and tennis shoes, without ALL THE PARAPHERNALIA that I lugged around all the way from US.
So, obviously, there is more than the medicines, high-tech gear and hiking practice that go into making a person "PARIKRAMANA-READY" – I think there is a more deeper SAMKALPA and the BLESSINGS OF THE LORD that would make one eligible for the PARIKRAMANA. I guess I didn't pass that test and the Lord gave a mere C+ or a B- for my effort instead of flunking me outright! I certainly feel blessed that I was even able to complete the PARIKRAMANA given my physical ailments.
On 12th morning some went back again to bathe in Manasarovar, though I did not (could not) go this time. We left the lake shore around 10 am and decided to reach Katmandu a day earlier (for more sight seeing there). So, we cut the usual 3-day ride back into 2 days by traveling for almost 12 hours one day and 10 the next. We reached Katmandu by the night of July 14th (instead of 15th) after clearing all those stupid border crossing formalities. The layers of bureaucracy there (both on Chinese and Nepalese sides) reminds us of our own country! Just paper after paper, signature, counter- signature and then approval signature! It is amazing that they can get ANY WORK DONE AT ALL!
On 15th morning almost everybody opted to rest in Katmandu, but being the greedy self that I am, I wanted to pack in one more temple tour while I am there! So, I along with 10 others went to visit MANO KAAMNA DEVI temple about 100 km from KTM. The journey was beautiful with the entire route flanked by tall mountains on one side and Trishul river on the other side. However, the wait was literally unbearable. We did not know that it was the last Sat’ day of that month for "BALI" to that "AMMA VARU" - there were lines miles long with people towing goats and chickens for slaughter. Anyway after a 3hour wait we got into the gondola of the cable car for a steep 1000 meter high ascent to the temple on the hill. After all this, we did not even get Darshan because there were long lines on the hill also. We returned to KTM completely tired at about 9 PM -did some late minute shopping and returned to the hotel for dinner and a final get together - for some praying, reminiscing, thanking the support staff and giving them some gifts. Finished all packing for the trip back to DLI tomorrow and went to bed. On our way to the YATRA, we stayed in KTM part of July 1st and whole of July 2nd.
On July 2nd morning, we took a one-hour helicopter ride to and around Himalayas, including Mt Everest, K-2, Annapurna and several other tall peaks - the experience was simply breath taking and exhilarating, to put it mildly. One feels SO STYMIED BY THE AWESOME POWER OF NATURE; it is simply indescribable to think how puny and powerless we are when confronted by nature.
ON 16th morning, we went to PASUPATHINATH TEMPLE again to have ABHISHEKAM done with water from Manasarovar. That was a beautiful experience because in spite of the crowds, we were able to get front row standing space and were able to watch the entire ABHISHEKAM done by the head priest there. Went back to hotel, had lunch and came to KTM airport for the flight to DLI. Reached DLI at 6:30 PM and stayed with relatives and flew in to HYD on 18th evening at 6:30 PM. I will leave for my village on 2oth July and come back to HYD on 25th or 26th and will reach SFO on July 30th.
OM NAMAH SIVAAYAH
Prasad.
I have just reached Hyderabad (after a 2-day stay in Delhi) yesterday. Our Mt Kailash - Manasarovar yatra was successfully completed on schedule and by God's grace, in reasonably good health. Besides a few other difficulties, I caught severe cold w/ cough during the onward journey itself, reaching its worst stage just 2 days prior to our PARIKRAMANA (the 53km hike around Mt Kailash to be done over a period of 3 days).
Of the 35 yatris, nine were already down with various other ailments (nausea, respiratory, fever, headaches, etc) and chose NOT TO go for the parikramana, and instead chose to stay over at the base camp at the foot of Kailash those three days. Of the remaining 26 of us, I think there were 15 men and 11 women. All except six opted for ponies as a standby (those who preferred to walk, but hired the pony just in case they wanted to get on the horse if the climb was tough). I was one of those.
All the 35 of us reached Lake Manasarovar on 7th July evening –spent some time there and arranged for a good location for Pooja the next morning. By now my cold was pretty bad and I wasn't sure what to do. Next morning, all of went back to the Lake and took a holy dip in probably 20 degree temp with howling winds beating us. By about 9:30 AM, all of us finished our bathing and changed over to clean clothes (to get ready for the Pooja) for the first time in almost 3 days!
The tour party had two Pandits/ Purohits with us, specifically for the Pooja. We all sat for the Pooja facing Mt. Kailash, with Lake Manasarovar behind us. By now temperatures started climbing into 70s and 80s and eventually must have reached at least 100 by the time we were done (because many of them got sunburns with literally the skin peeling off their backs). Starting around 10:30 AM, we all did Ganesh Pooja, Siva Abhishekam with 11 Rudrams, Chandi Homam, Laksha Vattula Pooja and a few other Poojas. It was quite elaborate and lasted till over 4:45 PM. (They brought all Pooja Samagri for everybody from Hyderabad itself). We had our first meal of the day on the shores of the Lake at 5:00 PM. Returned to our quarters as outside temp was dropping. That evening, I had a decision to make –whether to go forward with my cold or stay in the base camp.
With the encouragement of a lot of co-yatris, including our own Cheruvu Murty garu and Vijaya garu, and support from the tourist/ guide staff, I decided to go seeking God's help all the while - because I was not in a position to go, but decided to go anyway on the horse. Next morning (July 9th) we started around 9 or 10 AM and did the about 14 km on horseback and walked about 2 km. It wasn't that difficult, except that there was a hailstorm and then some rain for about half hour mid-way thru the parikramana. Both Murty garu and Vijaya walked all the way. Of the rest, I think at least 10 others must have ridden the ponies.
That night, my options weren't good at all! To go forward meant undertaking a 27 km hike (even on horseback, it is tough!) thru rough weather and ascending almost 2000 ft altitude with my cough/cold (plus maybe some altitude sickness too) - the alternative was to tuck my tail in, take the pony and go back to the base camp. Again, friends came to my rescue and said they will stay with me as needed and I decided with God's blessings to move ahead.
On 10th July we woke up at 5:00 am and started around 7:00 am to the highest point of our climb, a place called Dromla Pass, about 18,500 ft altitude. We had to reach there early so that we can begin the descent early before the gathering clouds caused any rain. Luckily, weather Gods cooperated and we made our ascent in good time. During the descent, the gradient is too steep and narrow for both horse and rider to travel safely together. So, I walked about 8 or 9km with my Sherpa guide besides me - then got on the horse for 4 km and walked the last 1km - that was the toughest 1 km I could think of! I was COMPLETELY EXHAUSTED, quite sick and I needed some puffs of oxygen before I could drink my cup of tea! On this day, just four people did the entire trek WALKING - all the rest of us took ponies for all or part of our journey. Cheruvu Murty garu walked all the way and Vijaya garu rode the pony all the way - actually, she was with me all the way because both of our ponies had the same horseman! During this hike, we pass thru Gowrikund (where Goddess Parvathi is supposed to have bathed), Rakshastal (where Ravana is supposed to have bathed) and a few other small lakes. We collected the crystal clear, running waters off of the melting snow of Mt. Kailash and some water from Gowrikund also. Weather was pretty good the whole day.
On 11th July, we started around 8 AM and I took the pony again for the last some 14 km - maybe walked a km or two. We reached the base camp by about 1 pm, had lunch and headed back to the OTHER SIDE OF Manasarovar. The circumference of this lake is about 90 Km and we went around and covered about 60 km the first time by car, on 7th July. The remaining 30 Km around the lake we finished this evening in our cruisers and rested in the guest house. The idea was to see the twinkling stars in the lake on GURUPURNIMA day while looking at the silvery reflections of Mt Kailash. None of that was possible because the sky was overcast and raining. Although some braved the weather by staying awake till 2 AM or so hoping for some celestial circus, I was too sick to get out of my bed and the spent the night in pain.
Besides the pain and physical discomfort part, the three-day hike/ horse ride left a deep spiritual footprint on my entire body=mind-soul that I can't adequately describe. Many of my co-yatris were DEEPLY SPIRITUAL and they felt the vibrations stronger than mine obviously (Some of them were overwhelmed with joy and ecstatic at the first glimpse of Mt. Kailash and they literally cried with joy for hours). My experience was not so deep or profound, but yet there was that powerful sense that overtook me to feel that after 3years of planning-dreaming-planning, I was finally ALLOWED TO SET FOOT ON THAT HALLOWED GROUND where many a saint has walked over millennium and made that place so sacred. Was I humbled? Of course, yes! I even felt that all my physical pain and the resulting INABILITY TO WALK THE PATH (as I originally planned and thought was fully capable of!) WAS A DIRECT RESULT OF MY IMPETUOUS UTTERANCES THAT I OUGHT TO BE ABLE TO WALK IT IF EVEN SO-AND-SO WAS ABLE TO DO IT! I strongly believe now that Lord Shiva wanted
to teach me a lesson in humility and to tone down my cockiness by showing me who is the BOSS and one would only walk if HE wishes you to walk, and not otherwise! Even some of my co-yatris from Hyderabad were so frail, or seemingly not fit enough for the parikramana, but yet, they did it either by walk or on horse with flying colors, without any physical discomfort, some even without ONE PILL OF DIAMOX, clad in ordinary cold-weather gear and tennis shoes, without ALL THE PARAPHERNALIA that I lugged around all the way from US.
So, obviously, there is more than the medicines, high-tech gear and hiking practice that go into making a person "PARIKRAMANA-READY" – I think there is a more deeper SAMKALPA and the BLESSINGS OF THE LORD that would make one eligible for the PARIKRAMANA. I guess I didn't pass that test and the Lord gave a mere C+ or a B- for my effort instead of flunking me outright! I certainly feel blessed that I was even able to complete the PARIKRAMANA given my physical ailments.
On 12th morning some went back again to bathe in Manasarovar, though I did not (could not) go this time. We left the lake shore around 10 am and decided to reach Katmandu a day earlier (for more sight seeing there). So, we cut the usual 3-day ride back into 2 days by traveling for almost 12 hours one day and 10 the next. We reached Katmandu by the night of July 14th (instead of 15th) after clearing all those stupid border crossing formalities. The layers of bureaucracy there (both on Chinese and Nepalese sides) reminds us of our own country! Just paper after paper, signature, counter- signature and then approval signature! It is amazing that they can get ANY WORK DONE AT ALL!
On 15th morning almost everybody opted to rest in Katmandu, but being the greedy self that I am, I wanted to pack in one more temple tour while I am there! So, I along with 10 others went to visit MANO KAAMNA DEVI temple about 100 km from KTM. The journey was beautiful with the entire route flanked by tall mountains on one side and Trishul river on the other side. However, the wait was literally unbearable. We did not know that it was the last Sat’ day of that month for "BALI" to that "AMMA VARU" - there were lines miles long with people towing goats and chickens for slaughter. Anyway after a 3hour wait we got into the gondola of the cable car for a steep 1000 meter high ascent to the temple on the hill. After all this, we did not even get Darshan because there were long lines on the hill also. We returned to KTM completely tired at about 9 PM -did some late minute shopping and returned to the hotel for dinner and a final get together - for some praying, reminiscing, thanking the support staff and giving them some gifts. Finished all packing for the trip back to DLI tomorrow and went to bed. On our way to the YATRA, we stayed in KTM part of July 1st and whole of July 2nd.
On July 2nd morning, we took a one-hour helicopter ride to and around Himalayas, including Mt Everest, K-2, Annapurna and several other tall peaks - the experience was simply breath taking and exhilarating, to put it mildly. One feels SO STYMIED BY THE AWESOME POWER OF NATURE; it is simply indescribable to think how puny and powerless we are when confronted by nature.
ON 16th morning, we went to PASUPATHINATH TEMPLE again to have ABHISHEKAM done with water from Manasarovar. That was a beautiful experience because in spite of the crowds, we were able to get front row standing space and were able to watch the entire ABHISHEKAM done by the head priest there. Went back to hotel, had lunch and came to KTM airport for the flight to DLI. Reached DLI at 6:30 PM and stayed with relatives and flew in to HYD on 18th evening at 6:30 PM. I will leave for my village on 2oth July and come back to HYD on 25th or 26th and will reach SFO on July 30th.
OM NAMAH SIVAAYAH
Prasad.
